This is our last day in La Rioja before moving onto our last few days in Spain.

 

We have still found plenty to do in our last week. We have checked out the small village of Cellorigo at the foot of “Home Rock” . Stunning scenery but don’t think we would want to live there!

We decided to take a “short drive” on Sunday and it lasted 4 hours. We were going to re visit a place we thought we had stayed at quite a few years ago and when we got there we realised that it wasn’t the same place. It was a nice village though with some lovely old houses. Lunch was good , particularly the “jam croquettes” the Spanish translation for ham croquettes.

The gorges we travelled through were stunning but unfortunately the roads were too narrow and there was no where to stop for photos…..sorry!

There is a town , not far from us that is an important stop for those travelling the Camino de Compostela. It is called Santo Dominigo de la Calzado.

A brief history! Dominigo Garcia was a hermit and around 1040 he decided to dedicate his life to helping pilgrims on their way to Compostela. He cleared forests , built a bridge and finally a hospital and a church. When he died in 1109 he was buried in his church which today has become a magnificent cathedral and his tomb inside the church is spectacular….sorry too many tour groups for a photo!

 

The Altar piece was amazing and it was begun in 1537! However there is something in the Cathedral that most people wish to see, and it is the Henhouse! In front of Dominigo’s Mausoleum is a Gothic Henhouse , built in the 15th Century to keep alive a hen and a rooster in memory of a famous miracle! Animal lovers…..it is ok….. the hen and the rooster are changed every 14 days!

So briefly ( if you are interested) the legend is…

1. German pilgrims (parents and 18 year old son) decided to walk the Camino and marry the son off on the way.
2. Stopped to rest in Santo Domingo de la Calzada , innkeepers daughter falls in love with the son, but the love is not reciprocated!
3. Girl angry, so she hides a silver goblet in son’s luggage and accuses him of theft.
4. His “theft” is punishable by hanging , so he is hanged.
5. Parents continue on pilgrimage and return to the town to visit the son’s grave.
6. When they arrive the son is still hanging from the gallows but miraculously he is still alive.
7. Son says “Santo Dominigo bought me back to life, go to the mayor and tell him to cut me down”
8. Mayor about to have dinner when parents arrive and says ” That boy is as alive as this roast rooster and hen that I am about to eat”
9. Suddenly the rooster and hen sprang to life, sprout feathers and beaks and begin to crow!
10. Thus the miracle occurred!

It was a very interesting visit.

For those of you who are “Game of Thrones ” fans this next place may be familiar. Ez told us of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe , an amazing spot , where filming had taken place.

The name means “Castle Rock” and it was exactly that. Originally a castle stood atop the tiny island , but now a small church sits there dedicated to John the Baptist.

The island is connected to the mainland by a man made stone bridge that goes onto a path that has 241 steps that zig zag to the top. Yes we did it!!!!!!!!!!!

 

It was an amazing day and certainly spectacular views were plentiful! As were the photos!!!!!!

We took a day trip into the city of Burgos . It’s main attraction is it’s stunning Cathedral of St Maria. We nearly decided not to pay the 7 euros to go in but so glad that we did!

The “starry” Dome raised in the 15th Century was incredible and the tomb of “El Cid” is underneath it (we even saw his coffin)

The main altar piece was just gold….gold….gold and wandering through the cloisters was very peaceful. It was MASSIVE!

 

Burgos is an important stop on the Camino trail. We saw loads of “pilgrims” or “walkers” who queue up at the hostels for a room for the night, and you leave your backpack in the queue to get the best room! Even though we haven’t walked it, Greg had to get his photo taken with his pilgrim mate!

 

The main square of Burgos, The Plaza Mayor , had some lovely buildings and was a good spot for a coffee.

We also did a day trip to visit a couple of towns on the Camino trail , and a drive through the mountains. Our first stop was the gorgeous little village of Puente de Reina, meaning the bridge of the Queen. The Romanesque bridge, built by the Queen , was built for the use of the pilgrims to cross the river on their way along the Camino.

We walked through the village where the pilgrims walk , from one end to the other….so yes you can say we have “walked” some of the Camino de Compostela.

We continued onto Estella, a large town , and again on the Camino trail. Again there was another beautiful medieval bridge to cross , and the main square, although it was market day , was a good place to stop for a beer! They were 2 good stops!!!

 

We decided that on our drive home we would go the looooong way and travel via the mountains and National Parks.

 

What a drive it was , the scenery was amazing as were some of the roads that Greg and Olaf had to negotiate! The Urbusa National Park was incredible. It was a great day!

This morning we visited a huge Monastery at San Millan de la Cogolla. The present renaissance construction dates from 1607 and today it is still a working monastery.

The inner church dates back to 1504 and the large altar piece was pretty stunning. The frecoes on the ceiling of the Sacristy were amazing.

 

It is official , Greg is now Church / Cathedraled out……however there is one more to come and that is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, which is the end of the Camino trail. Sorry Greg but we WILL be going into it!

The good news is that seeing we have been into so many churches and cathedrals we figure that we have everybody “covered off” for the next 10 years!

So that is it…..yep definitely that time again!

Adios amigos!

Greg and Rhonda

xxxx